|
[Home]
[Page2]
[Page3]
[Page4]
[Page5]
[Page6]
[Page7]
[Page8]
[1962 Stats]
[CostToDate]
[Log Book 1] [Log Book2] [Log Book3] [Send Me email?] [The 85 Ranger] |
LogBook 01 = Dec. 17, 2011 to Feb. 11, 2012|
What did I do for my 62 Fairlane 500 today?... This is a on-going on line log book of repairs, replacements, and just about everything I have done to the 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 to date. Naturally, I don't up date this log book everyday, but when I do I list here the repairs and fixes, and even just the cleaning, waxing on a nice sunny day.
NOTE: The "Junk Yards" That are mentioned within this Log Book can be several that I use. They are listed by location as referanced closest to me and most frequent because of proximity to my location. My observation, as relevant to the older vehicles availability in the junk yards is: #1, #3, #2. As listed. The Philadelphia yards, usually don't have vehicles this old, so visiting them also requireres me to be in Philly for other reasons. I make time to stop in there. Listed below are the Yards I use.
1- Cape May Used Auto Parts, Cape May NJ 609-884-4258. Tell them the 62 Fairlane sent you. The entries in blue are special entries. Things like Meets, Car Shows, and special interest entries of note in this Log Book. |
12-17-2011 (WOW a year to date since the 85 Ranger. Thats wasen't planned. Just happened this way) Titled the car in my name.
12-19-2011 Put car on insurance, and got license QQ license plates. Code Enforcement is rough when vehicles arent licensed and registered. So, I beat em this time. neighbors complain, tough crap!. All legal.
12-19-2011 After taking many pictures for building this web site. I started checking into and working on the Fairlane. First thing is to get some better tires. I desided to get some okay tires for working on the car. Not ready to get new tires. Jacked up the front end, removed the wheels and check out the underside in the front and the engine. I am going to need: battery, (we knew that), Plugs, plug wires, battery terminals. Since there is no brakes, I desided to check into the condition of the breaking system. The master cylinder, as it looks needs to be replaced. The break hoses I am also replacing too. The break lines look okay, and they still have the original factory under coating. I diden't pull the drum yet. Plan to do that soon. Hopefully, the shoes are okay and the springs. I checked they are available... Wheel cylinders, we will check when we pull the drums. They probally need replacing too.
12-23-2011 Looked for some 13 inch tires today to put on for working on the car. Found 3 of them, and they will work good for working on the car and short test rides when it's going. Ordered the master cylinder today at Advanced. Have one coming tomorrow beleive it or not.
12-24-11 MERRY CHRISTMAS!.. While my family is in the kitchen, and they said "get out of underfoot, go outside and work on the car". So, we did... Jacked up the rear and removed the wheels, and took a look at the breaks in the rear... To my surprise, they look in good shape, at least the drivers side rear drum. The pass side we can't get the drum off. We are spraying it with liquid wrench for a day or two. if that don't work, then it's the torch. If that don't work then we might have to break the wheel drum and get a new one. The problem seems to be around where the drum meets the axle. This drum does not have the removing bolt holes.
12-25-2011 Was chased out again of being in the way of food preperations... I was able to get the other rear drum off... It looks just like the other one. Good condition. So was the drum, brakes, and springs. Moving on to the front drums in the week. The rear break lines, may have to be replaced. Not too sure yet.
12-27-10 Was able to get the front drums off. Some trouble there, as the breaks was too tight against the drum. That was why it was hard to puch into it's parking place. Stared the adjustment down. Cleaned up the drums, breaks and everything. All 4 drums in good condition, all 4 breaks in good condition also including the springs, and original lines. Replaced the master cylinder, blead the lines. Wheel Cylinders all look good too. No leaking. Will test, when I get the engine running and see how the trans works. it's supposed to be good.
12-30-11 Removed the gas tank, drained out the 33 year old gas. (Man Oh Man, 33 year old gas really, really stinks!, litterely)... removed the sender, cleaned out the tank. Lot's of crap in the tank. I'll put a chain in the tank and fill it with water and swish it around to get any other crap that's built up. Then clean it out again, and after I am satified it's clean, put a gallon of gas and swish somemore. Got to replace the fill hose, sender hose, and fuel pump hose, and filter. Look into them soon. Put the decent tires on the front.
12-31-11 Put a chain in the tank and some water... Swished, and swished... Water came out dark again and eventually lightened up. Rust inside the tank. The sender is in bad shape... Un-repairable. Gonna need a new one. (On Line 65.00 not including shipping). Seems from no gas in the tank, Was very, very low. The sender's fuel guage wiring was shorted to ground. Look's like by the bad and rusty gas inside. The electrical connection, is so rusted, it measures on a VOM short. Too far gone to repair. Tank is cleaned out as good as it's going to get without using some gas to clean further. I will do that before it goes back into the car. Going to clean up the outside, and prime and paint with RustOleum before I put the tank back in.... Also, I should paint above the tank too before I put the tank back if all looks well in that area. I really don't want to remove the tank again for painting.
01-06-12 After I did my running around for chores, I went to the Cape May Junk Yard and found me a battery tray with the top battery holder and the hold down bolts. Had to go to just about every Ford in the yard. All battery tray parts came from Escorts. Checked for fit when I came home, and yes, it fits without a lot of modifications. Diden't put it in yet, too late in the day. Depending on the weather, Sunday or Monday. Have to work Saturday... We'll see.
01-08-12 & 01-09-12 I started on the battery tray. Found a tray and the battery top holder, and the J bolts for the battery in the junk yard. 5.00. I had to cut out a small area of rusted through metal a few inches square. I'll fix the hold when the weather breaks and install the tray. It's temp painted to stop any surface rust for now. it's snowing lightly in this area. While the 62 is covered, there is a little snow on the cover. This is the first snowing the car has seen since 1983 when the car was in the first owners garage. Here's a picture.
01-12-12 Today I removed the old spark plugs. I sprayed them for the last few days with pentraiting oil (spray) because there was a little rust around a few. They came out without too much trouble. Gaped new ones, and put in along with new wires, rotor, and distributor cap. I have new condencer and points. I don't want to mess with those yet. Let's see if it will start and run first. Next to see if i can find a old trucks mud flaps and cut it out for the pre base of the battery tray. Or something that will work just as good. I have the tray ready, but need a better base then just the plane metal bottom. I'll see if i can find something tomorrow.
01-13-12 Picked up a half mud flap today at a industrial truck service garage. Cost me a Wawa Shorty... LOL.... Should be big enough to make a platform for the battery tray. I also picked up at Home Depot the hose for the gas tank filler. It should work good. I figure those hoses for PVC pipe for sewer lines should work well because sewer gases and liquids are worse than gasoline... LOL... Too cold to work on the car, so it's running around day getting materials.. Picked up 4 foot fuel line hose, 8 foot standard heater hose, 6 hose clamps, two battery terminals. Stopped in Wallmart to see prices and sizes of batteries. Their prices went up. Better to get the battery at Advanced instead of Wallmart. I'll have to purchase a battery for a 95 Escort because that is the battery tray that I used. I checked the battery terminals to make sure the pos is on the same side as needed for the 62. It is.
01-14-12 Picked up the fuel filter, fuel filter adaptor, teflon tape, for the replacement of the fuel filter. I will also have to blow out the fuel lines from the fuel pump to the carb. I'll have to put the battery in first, disconnect the fuel line and crank it to see if any old gas comes out. If so, the fuel pump is working. if not, the fuel pump will need some work first. Maybe I can remove the carb's float-tank cover and have a look to see what kind of shape the carb is in inside. Maybe it's gunked. if so, I might have to re-build the carb before we try to start it. Same thing with the fuel pump. Won't really know until I start that part of the project. I am planning a video of the first crank/start in 33 years.
01-16, 17-12 After working on this web site while it was very cold these past days. Diden't do much to the car, but I did get some parts together. Heater hose, Fuel hose, AND the gas filler pipe hose. Thought that might be a difficult thing to locate. It's not OEM, but it'll work good. Home Depot. Worked on this web site. I suppose that's whats good about the cold days you can't work out side. Hopefully, this weekend I can get the engine running!. Waiting for pay day first. Pay some bill's, and if i can swing it, a battery.
01-19-12 Today I removed the old heater hoses and the gas line hose. Installed new hoses. Air blown the fuel line, the 33 year old gasoline to clear it of the old gas to to make sure it wasen't cloged. below is a video. There was no one around to help, so I used the camera to see what was going on under there. I made a short video of the procedure.
As you can see it went very well. I used a sock to catch the gas and gook instead of throwing it on to the underside of the body. Worked out quite well. Ordered the gas sender today from eBay. Also, removed the old original fuel filter (on the carb) replaced it with a adaptor so I can put on a see through type of fuel filter. The kit came with the filter, two short connecting hoses, and 4 clamps. Done, it's in.
01-21-12 Picked up the battery today. rated 550 cranking amps. It's a Advanced battery (Silver), with reversed terminals. Means, the positive is on the oppisit side facing the passinger's fender. I think I will also add a pig tail from the negitive terminal to the body. Better grounding. it's raining, no working on the car today... maybe tomorrow. Also picked up a can of Gunk engine degreaser. It has to be cleaned. I'm also going to have to replace the valve cover gasket. That's why the engine is soooo greasey and oily... better to work on it.. Besides that, it still has the original Ford engine blue paint.
01-22-12 Picked up some black metal paint and thinner, clean up the gas tank. Painted it in the heated shed. Should be okay to put the gas tank back in after the weather is better and I paint the underside where the gas tank goes. At least, it's ready to go back in. I think I found a better way to clean up the engine. Purple Power cleaner. Was talking to someone that used it to clean his engine. Said he used it twice on his engine and cleaned up like new. I have a feeling, all of the original blue paint is still there except for areas on the oil pan. Gonna have to do it, but the question is when?. Worked on the web site AND something special for use in car shows... Get this:. Install a mp3/cd player like, under the seat. Have a switch on the original radio speaker to go from original radio to CD player... Make a mp3 (they run longer) of songs from 1962, along with in-between the songs WIBG Jingles from 1962 also. That should be a nice touch when people are looking at the car in shows. Think?. [I have always been a WIBG fan and always will] (The WIBG here, isen't close to the original)
01-25-12 Ordered the valve cover gasket today at Advanced... Had to go up two years (1964) in order to find the engine listed, with parts opened in the computers list. It will be here tomorrow, but I'll get it Friday. It'll be in the car until I get to installing it. Get running, clean engine, then replace the valve cover gasket and a few other engine upgrades. Supposed to rain tomorrow (Figures, I have off tomorrow from work, that's when I was going to work on the car)... But, we'll see tomorrow..
01-26-12 Well, we got the battery in and mounted today. Looks nice. New battery terminals. Used the old wires. Break lights work, rear running lights work. Headlights don't work, front running lights don't work. The key switch has an issue too. Seems to be worn. I'll look into that another day. We tryed to start her several times, but she just don't want to run. She sounded like she was going to turn over, but, no, just a couple of short tryings. Changed the points and condenser. Going to have to buy a point gap tool. Guessed on the gap. Thought we had it, but, it just diden't srart. We have spark. Checked that. Don't know if it's sparking in the right spot. Will check that farther. Played with the carb a little. Seems there should be more gas pedal room. It's a bit close to the floor. Check that later too. The fuel pump seems to be working. The see through fuel filter is full. Filled while we were trying to start it from a 2 gallon gas can. Next time, I'll see if gas is actually spraying into the carb. I will also get some carb cleaner too. Till next time, she sits and waits. Work tomorrow, and Saturday. Here's a short video.
01-28, 29-12 We have started the car!!.. We had it running for a hour and a half, with a couple of off's and starts... Here is a 11 minute video on You Tube to show how that went...
I am also not happy to report some problem discoveries... First, Cylinder #3 isen't firing... The water pump leaks (slightly), and one of the freeze out plugs is leaking. The one in the middle of the block, under the exaust manifold... Now, granted, the water pump and the freeze out plug isen't that major problem, but the #3 cylinder could be... Next full day off I plan to remove the valve cover, disconnect the high voltage coil, and have someone crank the engine and see if all lifters are working. If they are, it's most likely a valve internally, and the engine head will need to be removed... Hopefully, if the lifters aren't working, I can tap the valve loose with just the valve cover off. That will be for the next time, and when I have a full day to work on the car. On a better note, the linkage is all lubed and working right, as far as I can tell... The next cold start after it setting for a day or so will tell. I replaced the linkage springs. There are two of them... Advanced has a spring package, and I cut and made loops on the spring. Worked well. Now, the throttle does not stick in higher RPM's, and returns like it should. The Auto Choke, we will find that out when I start it from a cold start.. Adjusted the fan belt and made the generator tighter around the belt... Now, our voltage is where it should be. 14.5. Sometimes it goes higher when the engine is at higher RPM's, but as I remember with cars from this time, that is just about normal... Later on in the project all the charging contacts will be removed from their terminals and cleaned with a finer wire brush. Here's a few pictures from the day's process...
Well now, it's been a busy and exciting two days.. Hasen't it?. Learned more things about the old car... Good and bad, but then, it's actually not that bad really, It could have been worse.... Oh I almost forgot!... You know, the rear wheels are still on blocks. So, I was curious if the trans even began to work... Had my son look at the rear wheels. I hit the brake (although it's not needed in this old car, but did anyway) to see if the wheels turned... Put my foot on the brake, and the speedometer started to read 2 Mph.. Pressed on the brake harder, Speedometer went to zero. Son said they were turning... I'll check into cylinder #3, in time... More on that as time progresses... The car is progressing thats for sure... If you want to leave a message for the comments area of the web site Please do. Till next time...
01-30-12 Tonight, at 9:30PM, I desided to see if the car starts. Was wondering if it started hard or soft. I probally coulden't sleep very well not knowing... LOL... Put the key into the ingition, turned to on. Oil and Gen light came on, Normal.. Turned to start... Nothin!... At first I thought the battery went down, but there wasen't even any starter relay clicking... Then it hit me!.. Oh, these cars had a safety device on the shifter. I remember I had to pull the shifter up, then start with the original car, sometimes.... And yes, she started no problem after I pulled the shifter up. Still has the miss, but sounded a little different, from the exaust, like it's working half way. Could it be working itself loose if it's a stuck valve?.... Funny, if it's a stuck valve I think I should be hearing the lifters tapping or a broken spring ratteling.. But no, nothin like that... Not hearing anything indicates a burnt valve... But, there is compression, at least with the finger test.... I borrowed a compression tester. But, I need to get the gas tank back in and connected. Running on the lawn mower tank sucks. So, thats the mission next good day. Then we play with the engine.... But, she ran, started easy, no craking, or spraying. I diden't even open the hood....
02-03, 04-12 Was going to work on the car when I got home from work today... But, now, it's raining... Tomorrow is cloudy, and I will see if i can get the gas tank back in, and the gas line connected to the fuel pump, and the engine running off the tank. Hopefully, I can also change the oil too. A friend stoped by and took a look at the engine. He seems to think it's a "lazy Lifter". Hmmmm, haven't heard of that term. But, We'll know in due time.. I purchased oil and a oil filter today, along with a complete gasket kit/set for the engine. Beleive it or not, Advanced still had some in stock in one of the wearhouses. Cheap too. So, I purchased the complete set. Probally need em as time progresses. Worked on the web site last night, and on going from a few day before. Changed the header. Dosen't look so crowded. Found a couch in the trash, and the material looks really good for when re-doing the seats. Threw it on the pick up and got it home and cut all of the material off, along with some foam. There should be enough to do the material inserts in the front and the back seats. All I need now, is a sewing machine, and learning how to use it, or a volunteer to do the sewing. We'll work on the car tomorrow just about after breakfast, when ever that will be... There is some prep work before the tank goes back in. I need to know it won't leak. We will also find out if the gas guage works. If not, could be the electric "Bi-metal heater" behind the instrument panel. We'll know when we put gas in and trun the key on.
02-05-12 Today I re-installed the original gas tank. A few weeks ago, we cleaned it out, and I ordered a new sender... Remember?. The tank was painted a while ago, and it was ready to go back in. Had to purchase 2 new hook bolts for the tank (Ace hardware). The one broke taking it out, and the other one was okay, but, for 2 dollars each, I desided to replace. Heres a video. The first short drive that the car has had since 33 years ago... It still needs mechanical work, but I needed to see/feel if all was going okay for now. And it is. At first, when I pulled into the street, it had some drag. I figured it was the brakes because they were a little tight when adjusted, and it'll level out driving it. (Self adjusting brakes). The car is going to need some transmission work, that is, seals, shifting into 3rd, Screen cleaning or change. At least, that is what I discovered so far. It leaks, what looks like oil, although I needed to put a 1/2 quart of trans fluid in. Don't know how bad it leaks, but on the next check, we'lll see.
Here's a video of the first short drive that car has had in 33 years. I drive it around the block, and to wawa. She stalls sometimes, but I think thats just low idleing speed as compaired to the carb when giving gas. I will increase the ideling. The left pulling when breaking has lightened up. I will keep a eye on that... Shifting into 3rd. Might be a part on the side of the trans, I will check into that further, as we progress.
02-08-12 Before I went to work I changed the oil and oil filter. I adjusted the idel a little higher. That seems to be the stalling problem. Diden't stall while moving it around for the ramps. The old oil was pitch black. I also tightened up on the water pump bolts. it's possible the coolent leak from the water pump was because the water pump needed to be tightened. I suppose I should tell you all, when watching the first drive video you see the couch stripped of it's material... That material, if all goes well, will be used for the seats when that area of the restoration takes affect. Thats it for today, had to run some chores before I went into work. Tomorrow, if weather permits, some more work on the ol' 62. Mission tomorrow: The #3 cylinder investigation. (Now imagine your watching Law & Order, Think: Dunk, Dunk). LOL....
02-09-12 Today I investigated the #3 Cylinder.... Removed the valve cover, started the engine. All rockers were rocking, and all looked good. I was NOT able to actually see the valve stems move because there was not enough of room in between the springs to determin if the springs were actually connected to the valve. However, all of the rockers and springs looked to be working correctly. Here's a video.
At that point, I got out the compression tester I borrowed from a friend... I tested #4 cylinder... 140psi... I then tested #3... 30psi... Yes friends, it seems rings are the problem, although it could still be a valve. Why?. Because if the valve is stuck open there will still be no compression, OR it could be a burnt valve and the compression is getting through OR, it could be a very dirty valve not sitting right.... It comes down to, The head has to be removed at some point or another. Removing the head and actually really getting to the nitty gritty of the #3 situation, would have to wait for a future time. I can however, turn the motor by hand and have a better look. That would requirer another person. I think I will wait until my older friend has a couple of days when it's warmer out to remove the head and know for sure. So for now, it's 5 cylinders. While I had the cover off. I got my screwdriver and scraped the gunk out as much as I could. Set the gunk in between the rockers and used the shop vac to clean it up more inside there. I also cleaned inside and out of the valve cover. Going to have to clean the engine next.
We keep on movin' until we can look even deeper into this problem. But for now, we move on..... On the transmission, Seems the transmission is a 2 speed according to Ford. So, that means there is no 3rd gear!!!.. Never had one?. it's only 2 speed?... WOW, thats nuts!. That means if your doing 55 mph, the engine is at high RPM's. If thats right, then the trans is working right, and the problems are just leaks.. I need to clean off all of the oil and dirt on the engine and the transmission to see where the drips are comming from AND find the numbers that are assigned to them. That will tell me exactually what they are. Engine 170 or 200?. Transmission?. Even though Ford sent me a letter for decoding the door lable. See, they decoded the Vin U as a 221 V8. We know for sure, it came from the factory as a 6. Are they wrong about the transmission?. They wont go any farther for me. So, we locate the numbers. First, a down and dirty real cleaning!. Soooo, if anyone knows for sure it's supposed to be a 2 speed, Please let me know. I have a feeling it is, and therefore better not go faster then, say. 40?. Okay, so next, is to order a top and bottom rad hose, and pick up a few foot of transmission hose for replacement. I will have to order them from New York (the rad hoses). I will probally also order a new water pump and gasket and a couple of freeze out plugs. If I'm going to drain the rad better take care of all the coolant problems at once. Thats it for this session.... See ya next time...
02-11-12 I was talking with a very experianced "older" mechanic, still working. He's the owner of his own well known shop in these parts. He suggested trying a product named Rislone. I purchased a bottle, at 10 bucks. Now, I'm not one for addatives, only a lead subtistute, like that stuff. Products that clame they can fix problems caused by age, or use, has a very large question mark in my book. But, this product suggested by this guy has merit. Using this product requireres that I use the car. Now, it's going to cost me a little more to do this because of the leaking transmission. I'm going to have to check the transmission fluid every day I use it. Drive around like it's a regular car... What?. yea, like, use it like a regular car for a while. That should's like fun, BUT, with a leaking transmission?. Leaking Water Pump, leaking freeze out plug, leaking engine oil?. I can also run it in the driveway each night for a few hours... I desided to give it a try. But, when I can drive it safely, during the light time, and checking the trans, oil rad coolant before I drive. That will also let me know just how bad the transmission is leaking. Maybe I'll call the transmission guy on Thursday and get a price to put new seals, screen, and have him check it out while I use it with this stuff. Here's the product. I'll up date the products progress in the future... Maybe it'll fix the valve, maybe not. Here's a few other pictures I took while I was running the car for a little while.
[Log Book] [Log Book 02] [Log Book 03] [Cost So far 62 Fairlane] [85 Ranger #1 project]
Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.
|
