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Masking for painting the edging.

Masking for edging the cowl area.

Hood back on. It's that time.

Painting the jambs.

Painting the outside, first coat and edging.

Buffing up stainless trim..

Making some trim clips.

Making the side dash marks hole templet.

Painting the inside.

Re placement of the stands.

Radio repair.

The rear removed for restoration.

Making new leafs to install.

Painting the rear ax.

The 1962 fairlane was badly rusted.

The 1962 fairlane was badly rusted.

Seats needed a lot of work too.

I do own a sewing machine, 1932 Consew Singer.

Removing the old material around the old vinyl.

Sewing on new beads for the centers.

Now, sewing in the new centers.

Hog ring placement and install.

Installing the beading.

Installing the centers.

Very strong old sewing machine.

Patching the spring covers. RAW patching.

Starting the booth-garage.

Making progress on the booth-garage.

Made from wood and bulleting board vinyl.

The nut and bolt painted wall.

Parts painted.

Booth painting. Edging some parts.

Parts painting in the home made booth.

Painting a few parts. To be painted again.

The home made buffing machine. Made from a washing machine.

repairing the rear rail.

Bending sheet metal patch.

Patching the rear lobes.

hand made dog leg.

Finishing the patching welding in.

Plastic (Bondo) Smooth over the roughing.

Plastic (Bondo) Smooth over the roughing.

May need to also see previous page.

  Today was a very busy day. First started out cloudy with 50% threat of rain. Had a couple pf drops, but cleared up and the sun came out. Checked out the radar, and there was no rain in sight until later on in the dark evening. We decided to continue, and we desided to see what it's like just before we are ready to spray on some edging.

  Finally, we have some edging on the rest of the car. The color, is a special color. Whats so special about the color?. I tryed to make it more of a 60's "hip" type of color. The second thing about this paint is........ No, I'll save that for when she's done...

  This marks great progress in this car's restoration. The next thing to do is get the stainless and aluminum trim cleaned up to go back on. It must go back on before the total car gets painted. If the trim goes on after the car gets painted, re installing the trim will scratch the paint. There is no question about that. So, we "edge" where the trim goes with a couple of coats, then we tape the trim, and then sand the car than paint the car. So, here is what was done this time.

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  Now, we go over some of the spots that need spot putty. Low areas, or inperfections.

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  The other side too. I will check all around the car, and putty where needed.

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  Now, to sand and wet sand the areas. This smooths out the surface so the paint shines.

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  Edging the door area. You can imagine all the places one can forget when painting the whole car. Plus, we edge for the placement of the trim.

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  Now we are getting there....

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  Now, we set in the booth for curing while I continue on cleaning up and buffing the trim.
You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 19 (Sanding, Sanding and Finally!)

Prep For Painting 19

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Prep For Painting 19

  Hello everyone. Busy buffing the aluminum and stainless trim while the edging cures. The stainless desent seem to be a problem but, the aluminum is. Had to figure out a faster way to remove the anodized layer. I seen this guys you tube video and I tryed it.... For non aftermarket trim, at least on this Ford, One would need to re apply and use the electric polisher wheel. But, yes, it is faster... The Stainless trim is no problem..... So, that is what I am doing. It's a s-l-o-w process. I'll have a video up when the trim is shined up and ready for the car. Stay tuned.... More to come.

  Today, a day off and it's a nice day. So, it's more buffing time. The trim will take some time to finish. This car has a lot of stainless and aluminum trim to buff out. Here's also a better way to remove the anodized layer on the aluminum. Next time, I have a idea to try for even faster progression. Until next time everyone. Here's todays video.

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  With my home made buffing machine (made out of a washing machine. Yes, included in another video earlier) We buff up the aluminum and stainless steel trim of the 62 Fairlane. It's a 500 car, that means lot's of trim to brighton up.

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  Last winter, I purchased some parts from CL. I now have two pairs of headlight trim, including the fender side trim for the light. We are choosing the best of the best.

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  With the plumbing stuff on to remove the anodized layer for a more brilliant shine.

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  This is the stuff I'm using. Works okay, but will need to figure out a faster bench time. This seems to be only available at Home depot. I tryed Lowes, and Ace, but Home depot seems to be the only ones to have it. Hair and Grease remover. WARNING: Use rubber gloves, contains lye. (Disclamer: Use at your own risk)
You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 20 (Buffing Trim, Aluminum Problem)

Prep For Painting 20

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Prep For Painting 20

  It's just about been a week or so since I up dated this LogBook. All I have been doing is bumping out dents in the stainless and aluminum trim. But, only the trim that goes back on before painting. Hammering, Buffing, Again and again. But, as you can see by the pictures and the video. Shine, shine, shine!..

  The trim is coming up beautiful, better than new. Mirror image..... I am plaeased so far.. Some of it was difficult, and some not.... But, it's better than in the 80's thats for sure.... For the last week or so, this is what I been doing. Next day off, we re-install some of the trim before painting....

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  First, we clean the trim. Use water only and a nilon brush. Nothing harsh, no soap...

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  Now, use the Hair and grease remover to remove the anodized layer. NOTE: Only remove the layer IF your willing to keep it shine, and NOT exposed to the elements everyday.

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  After chemical is applied, let set for about 15 minutes, than rinse with water.

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  He he he... Yea baby! Lit it shine.... This is the center aluminum trim in between the stainless "line" trim of the side.

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  Buffing up the one line trim for the rear door top. This is part of the starting fin.

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  This part is what is under the aluminum trim for the back door.

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  Shine, shine, shine...... I will try to get out the tiny dents in the trim. But, some I can not...
You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 21 (Stainless and Aluminum Trim Fix-Buff. PLUS: A Lesson to remove the anodized layer on aluminum)

Prep For Painting 21

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Prep For Painting 21

  TEXT UPDATE: Today, re installing the trim on the fender. Spent some of the day just figuring out how the trim clips go back on. I tryed to review the videos from a few years ago. Some help, but not much. We did figure out how to install, and water tight. Only did half a fender. This trim is unique to the 62, as in 63 the trim was changed. If the clips are available they are way to expensive. Like, 14 for 50 dollars?... You got to be kidding?. No, actually, that is the price.

  Most of the original clips are re useable. A few years ago I did clean some up and paint them, and that was a good idea, as they are on the top part of the fenders spears now. Before we continue on the clips, I have to clean the rest and paint them. Hopefully, I can do that this week before Sunday.

  As for the end clips (they are a screw down type) as each parts spear on each end is a screw down type. Typically, these end clips rust out, as in this cars case. But, I did find a solution. I have about 25 HP hard drive trays (AKA Sleds). The bottom of these are stainless steel, and they have air circulation slots. Evenly throughout the stainless. They cut nicely with the hand sheers, and bend nicely to fit in the car's spears trim and does shape around this part very well.

  For the next few days, I will be cleaning up the old "center" clips for re use, and painting them, and making new end clips from these HP trays. I am sure to have a video when completed. I have 14 clips to make, and that is each side. 24 all together... I am still not sure about how to open the original side holders for these clips on the doors, and the space to get to them is a tight and difficult area.

  But, I will figure out how to do this nicely without spending a ton of money on clips. So, keep watch here, and we shall see..... Until next time everyone. Chow!.

  CORRECTION: Although the sled bottoms would work out good. I was wrong about them being stainless steel. Although, I think they are a lower quality of stainless, they do attract a magnet. Good quality stainless does not attract a magnet. So, for fear of rusting lines on the paint, I decided to use aluminum. A thicker aluminum.

  I had a large peice of house gutter aluminum here to take over for scrap. I cut a large size out to try a aluminum home made trim clip. It worked out great, and that is what I used along with stainless steel screws and nuts. I made several extras for when I do the rest when the car is painted.

  For the last few weeks it's been working on the stailness and aluminum trim that goes back on before painting. There are some trim that sould be back on before painting because if put back on after painting the paint will get scratched. So we make out trim clips, and install the repaired trim. Then, we tape, sand the paint and shoot the car. But, we still need to paint the car is steps. I will explain that later as we do it.

  For this step, we have the stainless trim bumped out (as far as I go) Some places on the trim I could not get to. So, we have to live with it. Unless I can find something I can bump out those tight places without doing more damage. But, it looks good. I am happy with the results so far with the trim. Here is some pictures and a video of about three weeks work.

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  We had to remove the fenders to install the trim. Including the side headlight houseing trim. Could not re install the trim with the fenders back on. I still have to fix the fender orniments and re install them before the fenders go back on.

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011 - 2018. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
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Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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