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Working on brake lines.

New shoes, springs, and cylinders too!.

New, new new...

The nut and bolt wall of painting.

New again, as it was in 1962.

Painted. Complete.

primer on the rear and roof.

Roofing. Sand, primer.

The cowl, sand, primer and paint.

The sticker from PA.

Cleaning for painting.

Body work on the rockers.

Painting the dash also.

Primer, edging, and the doors.

Primer on the doors, and edging.

Some paint around the edging, and other difficult places.

Buffing the stainless trim.

Bumping out the dents.

Making the dash trim templet for the holes.

making the dash trim holes.

painting the dash.

Buffing the rear trim.

Sanding for another coat.

Masking for floor painting.

The couch for the material.

remove, and replace.

Homemade buffer machine.

driving past a speed trap.

repaired mud deviders.

Wildwood summer drive.

Welding in new pocket-well metal.

paint the underside.

Rear suspension back on.

Protect the sun from my head.

Nasty rusting.

A seat screw from 1962.

Painting the front wall.

The front wheel well, is done.

The other done wheel well.

Front wall is also done.

Rusted mud deviders.

Painting additional items.

Lot's to restore here.

May need to also see previous page.

  We continue on this page. Page 54..

  Today, was priming day. We had ready almost everything. Parts were covered, masked, and ready. We even had the guns filled. But, something happened we had to call it quits for the day. I had more work to do. Not to the car, but to the equipment. Here's how the day went...

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  More sanding on the doors. They are ready.....

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  The rear area of the door jambs.

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  Masking the little windows, handel cranks, and the door pull locks, door lock assemblies.

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  Then the compressor stops running.... The motor just stayed there and hummed.... I fix it a few days later. Hopefully, we will get primer on next time.

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  We were all ready.... BUT, there is more to mask as I noticed later on... Will need to ready more before the primer.
You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 16 (More Sanding, Oh Crap Problem)

Prep For Painting 16

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Prep For Painting 16

  Finally, we sprayed the primer on to the metal. Rear doors, jambs and rockers. Took a while to mask, and get ready. But, there is still more to go on this area. Next is to sand with 400, 1500, and mask again (where we remove the masking) and spray the color for edging.

  But, whats next after color edging?. Bumping out, and buffing up the trim. All of the trim along the fins. And the fender trim. The fenders must be removed for the trim on the fenders to go on.......... More on that, later. We must first get past the color edging.... Here's some pictures and video on that area priming.

  Remember, this is the primer. After drying and cureing we sand for the color edging. The edging areas will be sanded with 400, 1500 before the edging goes on.

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  More masking at night after work. A few nights for a hour or so. Getting ready for the next day off.

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  The rocker masking. Had to find something to capture most of the overspray from going under the car. This worked well. (Advertising signs from where I work they were trashing)

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  Wiping down the whole area with thinner. The ground was wet with water. Most dryed before we started spraying. Could have used another wetting.

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  Now, we start spraying primer on the metal.

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  Lookin' good. But, I did forget to cover the front wheels. Thats ok. Turns to a dry dusting before it lands. (Most of the time)

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  Going quite well. No runs, or sags....

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  Let dry for a few hours before removing the masking to return the car back in.

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  Remember, this is the primer. It still needs to cure and then sand where the color edging goes on.
You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 17 (Finally, Rear Doors Primer)

Prep For Painting 17

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Prep For Painting 17

  Today was a cloudy and rain was threatened at 50% day. It was drizzeling a few times but, still, I could not waste the day off... So, I desided to get out the home made buffing machine I made last year from a old washing machine. (There is a video of the machine.) Under the sun cover.

  Last year I made this. Today, is the first time this machine actually did some buffing. I am happy of the results. I deceided to make this video in real time, as Vic was over and he had some revelant questions some people may also ask. This video is 22 minutes long. A learning lesson for some people.

  If I was to purchase a buffing machine new. These machines cost from 400.00 to 900.00. I get the same results with this recycled washing machine. All I had to purchase was the motor to buffing wheel attachments and the 1/2 inch bolts. About 20 dollars at lowes. The stand is also made from the washing machine, as is the mounted buffing dollies. Made from the heavy duty gears inside the gear box. Cut, and welded to form a mountable bumping dolly.

  "Bumping" means, hammering out the dents. Then, file, then cut with the cutting wheel, then buff with the buffing wheel. It's that simple. The hard part is to know when to, and how long to cut or buff. How hard to hammer, and how much. Watch the video to see if you want to learn more.

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  Here, bumping out the dent in the stainless streel trim along the fender.

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  Now, after fileing (Very shallow file) we use the "cutting" wheel. The "rouge" is a cutting paste that removes less than a milligram of the surface during a pass.

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  This is the finished shine to the original 1962 Stainless Steel trim of this car. There is more to do as time passes.

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  This is one of the car's side trim on the fender. It's the trim extension of the headlight houseing. This is the original, as I removed it a few years ago. We are going to bring this trim to life.

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  First, we cleaned with water. No soap.. Then, here, we use the cutting wheel to remove the old and worn out electrolisis. It must be removed. It's peeling, pitting, and faded. This can be put back on at a rather high expense. But, we are just going to use polish for now when finished. The buffing wheel is polish.....

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  This picture is the finished trim. See the camera reflection?. Just doing this part took a couple of hours.

  The electrolisis, was for corosion protection. Aluminum get's a white power stuff. That is equal to rust in steel. Aluminum though, is a much forgiving metal than steel. Polish, will help keep the shine and keep the part protected. Maybe in a few years as time goes by I will try my own electrolisis. Maybe?. maybe not?. See ya next time. Chow!

You Tube Nav ID Prep For Painting 18 (Drizzle On Off Bump and Buff Trim)

Prep For Painting 18

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Prep For Painting 18

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011 - 2018. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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