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Wildwood crusing night.

Night driving in the home town.

prepping the roof for painting.

Working on the trunk fin painting.

Primed and ready for paint.

Big differance from now and several years ago.

The engine and compartment, new paint.

More paint on the engine.

Lapping the valves.

More work on the gas tank.

The trunk, as it was first day I got it.

Engine work, I did some years ago.

Ready for the head.

New freeze plugs too.

Building the trunk car show rack.

More, car show trunk racking.

Mounting the new radiator.

Welded those too.

Wildwood cruseing night 2016

Bumpers back on the 62.

The stone catcher and then the bumper.

Than the bumper goes on.

The radio work now. Here's was the problem.

Re building the carb.

The floor was not that bad when I got her.

There. Now, all the dash lights work.

Welding the fenders, new metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Clamp, weld.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Both needed lot's of work and metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. More welding.

Welding in new beam metal.

This also needed work.

New metal here also, both corners.

The 3rd engine will be going in.

Painting some engine parts. Kitchen table.

Paint the parts.

removing the rear for restoration work.

This picture was used in the Ford Muscle book.

Transmission rebuild 2016.

New tires, on the 13 inch rim.

Transmission rebuild. Trans working good.

yes, new tires on this side too.

Making the new exhaust pipe, front to muffler.

May need to also see previous page.

  We continue the car's restoration on this new page. This is Page 48. The car is on the ground, prepping the doors, and in position for front wheel work... More of this section on the previous page.

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  resting in place for the next day off and nice day...

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  Checking out the stand... Checking the height, and the modifyed leaf springs. Looks good, and I tested the bounce. Feels like the originals, so far...
You Tube Nav ID 62 prep Doors, Primer, plus 02

Prepping The Doors for painting. Plus re positioning for front end work.

(Opens in new window)

Prep Doors Primer Plus 02

  It's been a while since I wrote anything here. Been working at my job and on the car. The following is the current work on the car. We are on the front wheels and we are progressing kinda quick. Hopefully, tomorrow we can get the brakes done. But, for this entry, we removed the old brake stuff, and cleaned up the backing plates and drums. Installed new bearings in both original drums. They are in great shape, with pleanty of meat left.

  This is the last part we have to do mechanically. I have new brakes hardware and shoes for the fronts. Two parts not available, are the wheel cylinder push rod links, and there is a spring that connects the two shoes together. This spring is different, no one i talked to knew of this spring. The original is in good condition, and we will be using the spring and the push rod link. Everything else is new.

  below is pictures from the last weeks work on this car.

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  Driver side front wheel hub. Crusty, rust, and plane nasty dirt, grime. Cleaning up a must!.

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  The drums, removing the old wheel bearings from both front wheel drums.

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  Removing the old brake shoes and hardware. Everything comes off, right down to the back plate.

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  The original wheel cylinders. Crusty, rust, and crystallized brake fluid all around the piston, and in the rubber boot. naturally, they will be replaced. Nasty!

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  The rubber boot. Filled with crylized fluid. These must have been leaking before the car went into storage in the early 80's. The air, mixed with changing temperatures caused the brake fluid to crystalize. Not a common thing.

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  replacing the bearing, Inner and outer. The races was replaced too. These are Timkin bearings, and made to last.

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  Hammering the race into the hub socket. They fit like a glove. Have to be careful not to put them is slanted.

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  Now it's time to clean up the backing plate. Also, crust, dirt, and the nastys. Brake cleaner helps, but you also need to scrub. Wire brush, air tool wire brush, and tooth brush scrub.

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  brushing the back plate. Get all of the dirt off, old paint, as much as possible. remember, the paint has to last at least another 50 years.

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  Using the air tool with the wire brush. Angled tool for better placement.

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  This area, get good too. Here is where the road dirt, dust, and grime collects. Also where leaking brake fluid collects. This area I had to use a screw driver and pick off the crusties.

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  Now, we clean up the drums. Inside and out. Wire brush the lug not stud threads too.

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  Time to paint the drums. This is the outside. Notice the lug nut studs are taped. No paint in there. That will cause the nuts to mess up.

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  yes!. All painted including the insides, except for the brake show raceway.

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  The backing plate is nice and clean and ready for several coats of paint. Then, we re install new breaks and hardware.

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  New paint. Several coats. behind the plate too. Also several coats.

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  yes. we also paint the nuts too. Matching set ya know?.

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  Now, it on to the wheels. These are the original 13 inch wheels. They came with the car except one. I have another matching wheel, and I will change it out later on.
You Tube Nav ID Front Wheels Brake Hoses 01 (Start front hubs, wheels, brakes)

Front wheel, break Hoses, breaks, 01

(Opens in new window)

Front Wheels break Hoses 01

  There is still a lot to do to these front wheels. I am hoping to be able to remove the hoses without trouble. The brake connection to the hoses will be difficult to remove without damaging the lines. I am hoping to get them off. The lines are in good condition. The undercoating over the lines helped to protect them from rust. It is possible, they may brake or bend in trying to remove the old hoses. If that happens, we have more work to do. Installing new brake lines to the master cylinder. This will mess up the new undercoating and paint.

  I will have to replace all of the front lines. Later on down the road, I plan to replace the master cylinder to a dual master brake cylinder. This will give me more crash protection, as the front and rear brakes are seperated in case of a front or rear line failure, punchures, or something like that. if the backs go, the fronts will work and vice versa. That is planned for a later date. Just a small modification under the hood to disconnect a line from the "T", and place it on the new master cylinder.

  That is another day..... Until next time everyone. Chow!

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011 - 2018. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
You need permission to use or distribute any information on this web site.

Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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