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Wildwood crusing night.

Night driving in the home town.

prepping the roof for painting.

Working on the trunk fin painting.

Primed and ready for paint.

Big differance from now and several years ago.

The engine and compartment, new paint.

More paint on the engine.

Lapping the valves.

More work on the gas tank.

The trunk, as it was first day I got it.

Engine work, I did some years ago.

Ready for the head.

New freeze plugs too.

Building the trunk car show rack.

More, car show trunk racking.

Mounting the new radiator.

Welded those too.

Wildwood cruseing night 2016

Bumpers back on the 62.

The stone catcher and then the bumper.

Than the bumper goes on.

The radio work now. Here's was the problem.

Re building the carb.

The floor was not that bad when I got her.

There. Now, all the dash lights work.

Welding the fenders, new metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Clamp, weld.

Welding the fenders, new metal. Both needed lot's of work and metal.

Welding the fenders, new metal. More welding.

Welding in new beam metal.

This also needed work.

New metal here also, both corners.

The 3rd engine will be going in.

Painting some engine parts. Kitchen table.

Paint the parts.

removing the rear for restoration work.

This picture was used in the Ford Muscle book.

Transmission rebuild 2016.

New tires, on the 13 inch rim.

Transmission rebuild. Trans working good.

yes, new tires on this side too.

Making the new exhaust pipe, front to muffler.

May need to also see previous page.

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  Outside of motor compartment. Wheel well area. Ready for seam sealer.

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  The front of the wall. This is where the headlight mounting and trim go. Cleaned up this side also and primed.

  Way too hot today to do anything. I chilled, and went in the pool for a while. Tomorrow, it's also supposed to be hot. Too hot to work on the car... My face from the other day does have a slight case of sun burn. LOL, yea, it's redish... I have a makeshift set up for sun diversion, that is SHADE as I work. At least most of the time. I will be employing that cover in the future. Till next time.

  Yesterday, I removed the seats, carpet, sound suppression material from the floors to reveal the condition of the floor panels, kick panels, and any other rust problems that one can see from the top. Looks purty good actually. There are a few places that need new metal. I figured that, what I diden't know is how much. Now, I just about know and it's not too bad. A little more work time, but really not that bad. I seen worse.

  The plan has changed as to what areas to do, and I figured it would be best to just continue along, to the back. The front-front is ready to be painted/preped, but I want to get the grinding and welding done as to the side. And, the sides repairs goes into the floor boards, so, I figured I better continue that way instead of jumping to the back.

  So, after the two front to lower front floor pannels are complete, than it's work on the fenders while paint is drying inside the motor compartment and wheel wells and front. Part of the problem is I'm doing this outside, and consideration has to be taken about the weather and time spent in one single sitting. So, all the factors have to come together to make the day's work successfull. I don't have a garage garage. Wish I did, but maybe in the next home.

  Today it's too hot to play outside. Here's a video, and some pictures.

You Tube Nav ID Removed the seats, Carpet, sound suppresion material.

Removed the seats, Carpet, sound suppresion material to locate patch areas that need to be done.

(Opens in new window)

Carpet removal

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  My little sun screen tent set up. I take the wood and tarp down each time I done. So far, it's been working good.

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  The worst spot. Kick and floor board drivers side.

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  Seats removed, now we remove the carpt and the sound suppression material to get to the metal floor.

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  Dusty, falling apart sound suppression and carpet meterial. This get's trashed.

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  Vacuumed up, material stuff removed. ready to start cutting, welding, and patching.

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  Vacuumed up, material stuff removed. ready to start cutting, welding, and patching.

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  Vacuumed up, material stuff removed. ready to start cutting, welding, and patching.

  That's it for this setting. next decent day, I will start to work on the wheel well sides, on the cow area. Till next time. See ya!.

  Too hot for today... When it's cooler, I will start on the sides. Until next time... See ya later.

  Today was hot. However, late in the afternoon, it began to cloud, and then I desided to power wash the motor and engine compartment, and front suspension. Used the compressor air gun to blow dry, wated a little and put on the seam sealer where I welded. While that was drying, I cleaned all the wires for the front. They are ready to go back on the car. Tomorrow, if not too hot, I will sand the seam sealer, and prep for the compartment and front wall to be painted black. Then, it's wait until the next day and apply another coat.

  Mostly I want to get the front where the electrinics go done and put back that in order to run the car for moving it around for jacking it up and working on the area next. Need it jacked up to get to that area. I figure, I won't have to remove the electronics and wires again if I complete that part.

  Todays pictures. The compartment dosen't look clean but it is. (except for the bumper mounts, but were not doing those just yet). 3 pictures of todays progress.

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  The gray is the seam sealer. When dry, it should sand right up. Then we be ready to paint that area. I'm using NAPA's seam sealer in a quart can. Can be brushed on, and it is thick!. It's got the thickness of peanut butter. No kidding.

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  The voltage regulator, horn relay, light harness are on the top of the motor. I cleaned the wires and harness. There was a thick coating of dirt and dust. I will fix the wraping too when it goes back in.

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  The gray is the seam sealer. When dry, it should sand right up. Then we be ready to paint that area.

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  The gray is the seam sealer. When dry, it should sand right up. Then we be ready to paint that area.
  Thats it for today... Hopefully tomorrow is going to be a cooler day. If not, it will wait. Till next time.

  Today turned out to be a very nice day. Not too hot, and in the afternoon a breeze started. That was kinda bad because today was compartment and front wall painting. But, so far, all is well. 6 hours, preped the area. Sanded the sealer, and cleaned the compartment. All I was doing today is paint the compartment. The rest comes later...

  But Oh no! I forgot to remove the fiberglass installation under the hood first!. Well, So far so good. I may have to leave the hood open all night. I'll check it around 10 tonight. If dry, I'll gently almost close the hood until tomorrow. I'll use the huge bed blanket and cover the compartment and remove the fiberglass. All of it has to be removed.

  While I was preping yesterday, removing the electronics, I noticed the underside of the voltage regulator. Rusty, quite rusty. Sooner or later would need to replace it. So, this morning I desided to order a new one. Advanced had them made by BWD, and should be the right one. I don't have a picture of the old one. It's under the yellow sheet. Diden't think of taking a picture of it.

  Tomorrow, after I remove the insulation and clean it up a bit, I'll but back the wireing and electronics. If all is good, I'll change out the voltage regulator. Till then, see ya.

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  My wind and people dirverters. This keeps the wind to a minimum, and keeps the people passing by from disturbing things. Works out nicely.

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  Not bad huh?. yes, off the shelf 10 dollar a quart rust O leum. Sprayed with a air gun, and thinned. Not ready to do under or the bumper mounts yet. The wheel wells, not yet either. After the car is running again, it's jack it up and start on the sides, drivers side floor.

  Today another nice day. Not too hot, a breeze... Today I removed the fiberglass under the hood. Man what a crusty, dirty job that was. The hood itself had caked on oil and dirt. The oil was most likely from the old motor with the valve coveres being done with permaseal and not the correct gasket... Took several hours to clean. I used paint thinner and several rags.

  Changed out the voltage regulator, and the new one diden't work. The voltage just stayed at 12.58, and the gen light stayed on. Put the old one back in and all okay. returned the new regulator. Gonna try another one. I do see a differance between the old and new. One relay, the last one, the center pin for the coil isen't on the bar (see pictures). Acording to the computer, this one should have worked. If the next new one dosen't work, I'll try a different Mfg, and compair the underside.

  Thats it for today. Started on the car around 11AM, and finished around 4PM, not counting the run back to the parts store. Next few days I'm working, and there will be time to see if the next new voltage regulator works. After the regulator situation is fixed, I'll re posittion the car in front and jack it up, block it, to get ready to start on the body where I left off. So, here's a few pictures of todays progress.

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  Now the underside is cleaned up, fiberglass removed, and it's ready for sanding and painting when that time comes.

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  The old and new voltage regulator. See the differance between the last connection bar?. The round rivit (I think) is the center magnetic bar for the relay. There are three relays inside that control the voltage. The two white line things are resistors, that regulate the relays actions. I have a feeling, the incomplete bar is not what this model car likes. Might have to use another Mfg if the next one dont work.

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011 - 2018. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
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Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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