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Working on brake lines.

New shoes, springs, and cylinders too!.

New, new new...

The nut and bolt wall of painting.

New again, as it was in 1962.

Painted. Complete.

primer on the rear and roof.

Roofing. Sand, primer.

The cowl, sand, primer and paint.

The sticker from PA.

Cleaning for painting.

Body work on the rockers.

Painting the dash also.

Primer, edging, and the doors.

Primer on the doors, and edging.

Some paint around the edging, and other difficult places.

Buffing the stainless trim.

Bumping out the dents.

Making the dash trim templet for the holes.

making the dash trim holes.

painting the dash.

Buffing the rear trim.

Sanding for another coat.

Masking for floor painting.

The couch for the material.

remove, and replace.

Homemade buffer machine.

driving past a speed trap.

repaired mud deviders.

Wildwood summer drive.

Welding in new pocket-well metal.

paint the underside.

Rear suspension back on.

Protect the sun from my head.

Nasty rusting.

A seat screw from 1962.

Painting the front wall.

The front wheel well, is done.

The other done wheel well.

Front wall is also done.

Rusted mud deviders.

Painting additional items.

Lot's to restore here.

May need to also see previous page.

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  Looking at the outer side, facing the wheel. Ready except the new mounting holes.

  Diden't remove the masking tape yet. I will tomorrow so the tape don't melt on to the rubber. So, we are moving along. See ya next time....

  Today Me, Vic and Skippy went to Horbor Freight to pick up some stuff. I needed a new grinder, and some wheels. A few other things for working on the car. My old Craftsman grinder after many years of service bit the dust yesterday. HF's grinder looks a bit like the old one and works just as well.

  We got back rather a bit late, and I desided to at least start on the shock tower patch. Woulden't you know, I actually finished it. ready for painting when I do the compartment painting. Have one hole to drill, and the fender will be the templet for the hole. I diden't have to do a lot of grinding, and I think I know the welder a little better now, and I am ready to tackle the other side tomorrow, if time allows.

  So, the car it self, has started. Will be a while, as the front has a lot to be done not only patching but painting too, along with patching and painting to the fenders. Undercoat, and black paint. So, keep track right here. She's coming along, slowly, but shurley. Here's some pictures.

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  This has to be removed and patched. Used the grinder to cut the bad, Made a peice to fit, welded, and preped.

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  New peice welded in, grinded, and preped for finishing.

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  Used Bondo to fill the grinds, sanded and primed. The fender mounting hole will be drilled when the fender goes on.

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  The underside. The cover goes on. But first, a couple coats of undercoat will need to go on when the time comes.

  Thats it for today. Tomorrow if time allows, the other side will be done...

  Today after I did my running and the Doc's, I did the passinger side shock tower. This side went a bit faster, and it was a little harder. Where the curve is, just under the hood spring, there is a little place where the metal turns on to the houseing for the front spring. I had to make one to fit. The turn took the most time. The turn peice is only about a inch by a 1/2 inch or so. I had to bend and shape in order for it to fit. The total "hole" to patch for the tower took a total of three custom cut peices, and welded into place. Glad I started with the drivers side, as that side very well gave me experiance to do this one.

  Now, most likely during the week end I will start the sides where the fender cows are. I can remove them, and fix and put back on most likely. The under side, I will do seperate, as I need to block up the car in order to get to that area. Here's a few pictures of todays work. I diden't post the actual tower before I started on this side. It was a little worse then the drivers side, but not a lot.

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  Cut out the old, grinded the rust, made the new metal peices, tacked weld, then weld.

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  The rounded little part, on the left, top where the patch is was the hardest to do.

  Sunday, I started on the front patches. Started late, and diden't finish. But, I did get the welding done but diden't grind or finish prep. I was planning to finish today but did rain in the early morning and intermintant throughout the day. So, needless to say, that's where I stand. Hopefully, I will be able to get to finishing the spot during the week.

  I noticed oil leaking from the oil light sender. I ordered a new one. I noticed the temp sender is not working properly. At least I *think* it's not working properly. The temp never goes beyond the C line. So, I took a real good look at the sender.... I then looked up the temp sender at Advanceds web site, and I *think* the wrong sender is in. Possibly originally from the car the motor came from. That woulden't normally be a problem except, I think the motor came from a "lighted" temp instead of a guage. They are two different senders.

  I ordered the senders and the guage temp sender, that this car has is a smaller sender. The one in is a larger sender, Visually, indicating the sender should be changed to a guage sender. That could be why the guage dosen't get past C. So, we will find out if it reads normally when I change it in a day or two.... Threating skys all day, spits and downpors of rain all day. Did nothing to the car today.

  Okay, so now, we replaced the temp and oil sender. The oil sender was leaking oil. The temp sender was incorrect. Matter of fact, it was the wrong one. Originally, this motor came without an adaptor in the block for a different temp sender. I also think, the sender that was in there was for a light rather than a guage. I ordered both, a guage temp sender, and a oil light sensor. They came in, and I replaced the oil sender. No problem, however, with the temp sender I had to remove the adaptor. removing the adaptor, the correct hole, and the senders tip is now actually positioned in the block the right way. The coolent, wasen't really passing the senders sensor correctly, and could be giving false readings.

  I thought it was odd that the temp guage would jump up kinda quickly to a little under 1/2, and back down again to C position kinda quickly. Bad sensor?. Could be, but I dought it. Also looked like a light temp sensor rather than a guage. So, now, the motors temp guage is correct.

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  Running the motor for almost 45 minutes, steady guage. This is the correct temp. Sould be somewhere close to the middle.

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  The two senders. Oil is lower, Temperature is higher.

  Okay, now that was taken care of... I had to get to the front rad mounting (I call front fire wall). I have on order seam sealer. That will be put on all the places I replaced the metal and welded. I will prime again. Then, when it's time for the undercoat, I will put on the undercoat in the wheel wells, and the rest, inside and outside the compartment. Paint. When it's time. Not for a while yet. Here's some pictures of the front fire wall. Had a hard time getting up in there to grind. really difficult. But, it's done, at least to this point.

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  The front wall patching. This area, seam sealer and undercoat.

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  The front wall patching. This area, seam sealer, primer again, and then ready to paint.

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  The front wall patching. This area, seam sealer, primer again, and then ready to paint. This was the hardest to get the grinder in. Some areas I could not get but I cleaned real good.

  Today I started on the drivers side front fire wall. (Rad mount). I have the areas prepaired for welding in the new metal, that I also shaped today. As stated yesterday, this side isen't easier. This side is just about the same as the other, but a little more difficult as to the end metal curves to accomindate the fender sealing. Now, I can't make that kind of turning on the metal, with the inverted dimples. So, I am forced to do the best I can with this curve. I have an idea. Only time will tell. I will also test. That is, to place the fender to make sure it's a fit before I work on the fenders.

  I have the metal ready to be clamped in and welded. I will have to wait until I get the time. If I have a haze of rust because of waiting, I can just re grind, and re sand before I weld in the new metal.. So, as for today, here are 4 pictures. Just before I started, and partialy preped for the new metal except the two curved sides. You can see them. I haven't preped them before the pictures was taken. They are now preped and ready. Most likely, Saturday or Sunday to complete this part of the car.

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  From the inside of the wheel well. Looks bad, but not really that bad. About the same as the other side.

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  From the outside. This is the part that all the other body parts connect on to. This is before I started. Still, bad, but not that bad.

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  Old rusted metal cut out and just about ready for the new metal to go in.

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  From the inside of the wheel well. Almost ready. A little more sanding with the air sander, and it'll be ready.

  We will continue this portion of the car on the next day I have time to work on it. So, see ya later,

  Okay, today started out not too hot, ended up hot, hot... I am pooped out today. Continued on the drivers side front fire wall. Began close to 12:30. Kept at it until almost sun down. Got finished, and I am ready to tackle the cow divider area. This side was harder. Bigger places to replace the metal, Had to remove a little more bad metal as I started to tackle this area.

  Some of the siding flanges I had to use the passinger side as a guide, hopefully, when all done, the outer body will fit without a problem. Worst case, I will have to shave some of the flange for the fenders to fit correctly. A few bolt holes will need to be drilled. I preped the whole front of the wall, and shot it with primer, and the area that housed the voltage regulator, horn relay, I preped also for painting and primed. I suppose that is one reason why this side was a little harder to complete in this sitting, but I did.

So, here are a few pictures of the work today. I did pick up a quart of seam sealer by NAPA. This stuff can be brushed on, and it was recomonded by a few people who said it was a good product. This stuff will be applied before final painting around where I welded, and the seams. I will most likely remove the old seam sealer and re seam with this stuff before the undercoat and finishing paint is applied.

  I am planning on using undercoat in the wheel wells and in the cow area behind the fenders, and on the inside of the fenders. Than, paint with rust O leum, using the compressor sprayer. Matter of fact, the motor compartment, front fire wall, inside and outside will be done. This I will do before moving on to the rear. Okay, Here are a few pictures.

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  Inside the motor compartment showing the electrical equipment houseing area. This area had a lot of surface rust. Clean off, and primed.

May need to also see previous page.

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© 2011 - 2018. 1985 Ford Ranger Antique. 1962 Ford Fairlane 500 antique.
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Dedicated to: Mr. Wills. My High School Auto Body shop teacher in 1973, 1974, and 1975.

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